Travel to Antalya: On the Lycian trail of history and sea

Kate Clow, the author of The Lycian Way and a history buff, set me on the Lycian Trail in Antalya. Seven hundred and sixty kilometres in length, the route starts in Konyaalti, near Antalya, and ends in Fethiye, and can be traversed on foot over a month or in a few days on wheels. It passes through several Lycian towns and Unesco World Heritage Sites.

The Lycian Trail

My plan did not include hiking or driving through every town but seeing the sites between Antalya and Demre (ancient Myra) — the highlight being the Sunken City of Kekova. A SunExpress budget flight took me to Antalya and upon arrival, Huzur, my driver-cum-guide and a former archaeologist, whisked me along the D400 highway with sweeping views of lush forests and a dazzling blue sea. This is considered one of Turkey’s most beautiful roads.

Upon reaching Kemer, I made a discovery. On this side of Turkey, it is important to have your own transport, an advance booking, and deep pockets. Outside the city of Antalya, there is little chance of finding a budget-friendly accommodation — especially in Kemer, the poster child of the Turkish Riviera. After looking in vain for a famed Turkish pansiyon (a local B&B) in Kemer, I ended up at Club Med, an all-inclusive hotel bordering this touristy town. At least I didn’t have to worry about food.

Fortunately, this also meant I was rather close to Phaselis, Olympos, and, my final stop, Demre.

I spent the evening dipping my feet in the cold blue Mediterranean, looking forward to Phaselis, my first stop in the morning.

Despite the earthquake that destroyed Kekova, some structures remain intact

Phaselis and Olympos

Huzur and I bonded over our interest in ancient ruins; by the time we were in Phaselis, we had become thick friends.

The port city, backed by magnificent mountains and surrounded by the clear waters of the Mediterranean Sea, dates  back to seventh century BC. It was once the only city located next to the sea; most ruins in Turkey are situated inland.

Walking through the ruins, I got a feel for how daily life was when the city was in its prime. The long waterway canals, a round theatre, and ancient agoras were carefully planned and built around the main harbour street that gives way to views of the crystal blue sea and golden beaches. Technically, no guide is necessary to explore Phaselis, everything is well-marked and information boards are everywhere. But every small detail helps in understanding a city.

My next destination was Olympos, about 30 minutes away from Phaselis. Enroute, we passed Mount Chimaera, also known as Yanartaş, sitting majestically on the turquoise coast. There is a legend attached to the flames fluttering out of the mountainside that involves a mythical hero named Bellerophon and a dragon named Chimaera, which was part-lion, part-goat, and part-serpent. (The scientific reason, however, points to natural gas seeping from the earth.)

We reached Olympos close to noon. This  was the second-most important harbour city in the region. Founded in the Hellenistic Age, it eventually became one of the members of the Lycian League before being conquered by Rome and becoming an important part of its empire.

Some parts of the site were closed for renovations (as were some spots in Phaselis), so it took about 45 minutes for a walk through.

After a late lunch in Finike, another seaside town with forlorn beaches and orange orchards, a major export of the region, we took off for Myra (Demre). 

The drive to Myra is stunning — the blue Mediterranean Sea nudges the cliffs on one side and mountains rise into the skies on the other. The road winds around the mountains and passes small bays and lagoons.

Ancient city of Myra

Finally, in Demre, the archaeological wonderland of Antalya Province, I found what I was looking for — a pansiyon run by a kind lady whose primary joy was to treat her guests to oranges from her garden. “Not like Finike oranges, but better,” Huzur translated her declaration.

I went to sleep dreaming of oranges.

The Sunken City of Kekova

We reached the Demre Harbour early, armed with oranges from the panisyon, only to be greeted by a huge sea turtle making its way around the Mediterranean.

About half an hour later, we arrived at stunning underwater ruins, now partly submerged six metres below the sea — hence the name Batık Şehir or Sunken City.

Kekova Island is no longer inhabited — and it is only possible to explore this protected island by water. Once a thriving community, it was destroyed by an earthquake. Today, only parts of walls, water channels, a stone staircase descending into the water, royal tombs, and boathouses remain. Under the water are remains of terracotta pipes, amphorae piles, stone foundations, and rock-cut staircases.

The biggest draw here is not just a glimpse of the Sunken City but also the crystal-clear waters that are ideal for kayaking.  

The region is full of history dating back to the Lycian and Roman times. Among the ancient cities here are Simena (Kalekoy) and Ucagiz.

Across Kekova Island is the historic town of Kalekoy, sitting on the mainland but accessible only via water. Pretty restaurants line the shores and Lycian sarcophagi jut out of the sea. While much of Kekova is now under water, Simena Castle (Kekova Castle), stands proudly atop the central island offering majestic views of the surrounding areas.

Saint Nicholas, the real Santa Claus

Back in Demre, we headed to the Unesco World Heritage Site-listed St. Nicholas Church, now a museum, where I make my final discovery — St. Nicholas, the bishop of Myra (now Demre), was the inspiration behind the legend of Santa Claus. He was born in 370AD in Patara, Lycia (in present-day Turkey). The church, with its fresco-covered walls, holds his tombstone.  

Church of St Nicholas

The most famous story of St Nicholas here talks of three sisters. 

It says, their father did not have enough money to pay their dowries and wanted to sell them into servitude. Three times, Saint Nicholas secretly went to their house at night and threw a bag of money inside. The man married off his daughters with the money. On the third visit, the man saw St Nicholas and thanked him for his kindness.  Some gold fell into the socks drying by the fireplace. This is why there is a tradition to hang stockings by the fireplace.

Ancient theatre of Myra

The amphitheatre

The Lycian Tombs of Demre

My last visit of the day was the ancient city of Myra, to visit the Necropolis and an ancient Roman theatre. Entering the gates, I was greeted by Medusa’s head, thought to ward off evil in ancient times.

The exact origins of Myra’s existence remain unknown, although parts of its ruins are thought to date back to fifth century BC.

The cliffside necropolis stands above what later became a prosperous Roman city with a theatre that could seat least 12,000 spectators. Here you can see traces of Greek, Lycian and Roman heritage — and at the top of the theatre, the past and the present collide. Lining the fringes of archaeological site are hundreds of white greenhouses that produce vegetables and oranges. 

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